EXPERIENCE HISTORY, MINING AMETHYSTS, SCENIC BEAUTY

WHEN TRAVELING NORTH SHORE LAKE SUPERIOR COUNTRY

by: Julie V. Watson

If spectacular scenery, rugged landscape, nature, fascinating history, friendly folk and very interesting historical experiences appeal to you, then Lake Superior is a place to consider visiting. Last summer we set out in our mini-RV for a coast to coast trip, determined to pause long enough to enjoy northern Ontario, particularly the wonderful natural beauty of north shore Lake Superior.

We met up with Lake Superior country at its eastern end, at Sault Ste. Marie, and followed the Lake until we turned North west out of Thunder Bay.  Our cross Canada vacation had been planned in part around visiting friends, and we had several who for some strange reason ended up in Thunder Bay.  Strange because they came from many parts of Canada to this northern Ontario town.

Unfortunately we didn’t have much time at Sault Ste. Marie. We did do one thing we had talked about  for months.  Our traveling companions wanted to overnight in a Walmart parking lot.  Its free and I must say the folks at Walmart are very accommodating. Great way to save money when you are motoring from place to place.

We had to hit the road early but plan to return as there were many things that have been added to our ‘must do’ list. A National Historic Site pays homage to the canal which connects Lake Superior with Lake Huron.  Built in the late 1800s this was the first electrically operated lock in the world and has the only remaining Emergency Swing Dam.  You can be lockmaster, tour behind the scenes and watch boaters passing by. Then cruise along the canal front and explore downtown. Let someone else do the driving with a Lock Tour Boat Cruise or ride the rails on the Agawa Canyon Tour Train.

Weather turned interesting coming out of “The Sou” when fog descended on us. We had fog on and off all the way to Thunder Bay.  Better than rain and it gave a mystical feel to everything.  As we couldn’t see the scenic vistas, we were more focused on the up-close and loved it. This is truly spectacular country, stunning rock outcroppings, mist shrouded lakes, bubbling rivers, and ethereal forests. 

Sandy beaches and parks lured us to walk and enjoy as we traveled and I must say we were impressed by the number of provincial and community parks.  We overnighted in WaWa and had a grand time seeking out giant geese around town. White River is a must stop.  Once serviced only by the railroad the small town has one big claim to fame.  It is the hometown of Winnie-the-Pooh.  We missed the August festival celebrating the little bear’s rise to fame, but we did get photos by his statue! When you get to Terrace Bay you are running beside the Lake Superior National Marine Conservation Area.  Within its boundaries are shipwrecks, meteorite impact sites, rare plants and animals and of course, amazing scenery.

As official navigator and activity planner I had a goal this trip - to mine precious stones. We visited two open pit amethyst mines and now have a small box of treasures.  (Small motorhome + 4 months of travel = small souveniers). Great experience especially as it was so foggy we could hardly see in front of us. The fun of unearthing our own treasures was far better than buying jewelry in a shop.  The biggest of the mines open to visitors is the Amethyst Mine Pandora, but the most fun was the small Blue Points Amethyst Mine. The visit was free at Blue Points, the site more primitive and relaxed. We enjoyed it tremendously.  I will put a more detailed report on amethyst mining here in the future.

Our only disappointment was the lack of wildlife.  We were told over and over to be wary of deer, moose and bear but only had to dodge one bear.  Perhaps it was just too hot.  I have to pass along the warning about driving the north though.  Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife.  It is plentiful and often bounds across the road.  Be especially careful between dusk and morning when nature is on the move.

Friends in Thunder Bay gave us a look at the town.  I was pleasantly surprised at the farmers markets, some small neighbourhood affairs in store fronts and another large venue with lots of ethnic vendors present.  I like to seek out specialty shops and was thrilled with one called, ‘Twas The Night Before Christmas, which specialized in hand made figures and dolls with a fantasy theme.  I’m not a doll collector, but the fairies, and troll like creations were wonderful.  Ask about Horatio’s Restaurant if you enjoy exploring ethnic food and atmosphere.

We had a four day “rest” at the KOA Campground in Thunder Bay. Near did ourselves in with a rigorous game of mini-golf in the heat.  The guys cooked up a favourite meal for themselves: sauerkraut, sausages, potatoes and onions all boiled together.  We gals stayed upwind of the “stink” and let them go to it - that was our gift to them!

We highly recommend Fort William, an interpretive “living history” look at the era around 1815 when voyageurs were hauling huge canoes filled with fur from the wilderness north of Lake Superior to Montreal.  Paddling, portaging, hauling what ever was needed to feed the fur hungry European market was the reason for the trading post which was manned by Europeans, mostly British, Metis and Ojibway.  Interesting to see how the cultures came together, especially how the British survived.

We got a taste of  bannock cooked over an open fire in fat rendered from game, had delicious voyageurs stew for lunch and I foraged for native plants which were used as food, flavouring and medicine.

At Thunder Bay we had to leave Lake Superior because our ultimate destination this trip is the Pacific Ocean.  I would recommend taking in Kakabeka Falls; almost as high as Niagara. Crossing the bridge at the top of the falls gives a wonderful view of the river.  Perhaps not as impressive now as in the past; as some of the water flow is diverted for electricity, but certainly beautiful and amazing when you think of the voyageurs  portaging around them.

We heartily recommend taking the full Lake Superior Circle Tour.  Its on our list for when we have a couple of weeks to spare.  But I must also say, we were just beginning our wonderful trip across Canada and there was much, much more adventure ahead.