Banff, Jasper and on to Vancouver

RIDING THE RAILS SPARKS PURSUIT OF PASSION

 

by Julie V. Watson

 

I grew up chasing trains.  First in England where I was born, then in Canada.  My Dad was a train enthusiast - mostly steam but really any train would get his juices flowing.  Many weekends would find our small family in pursuit of a glimpse of one of them passing by a level crossing, or over a trestle bridge. As a little girl I learned to read maps, entertain myself during waits for “the arrival”, to enjoy nature and the joy of having a purpose to an outing.

 

Actually riding on a train was a rare treat. Too rare, a fact  perhaps triggering my adult desire to do so.  Familiar with VIA Rail’s Atlantic Run thanks to many trips from our home in Prince Edward Island to Niagara Falls to visit my parents, I still longed to ride the rails in Canada’s west.

 

In March I was privileged to take the VIA train from Jasper, Alberta to Vancouver as the culmination of a dream trip.  I had always wanted to see the Rockies adorned in snow. After flying into Calgary a Brewster bus took us to our destination, the Banff Springs Hotel. It was a magical journey thanks to hoar-frost that turned the foothills into a winter wonderland.

 

Although many summer attractions were closed, and my wonky knees were not up to ski hills or snow shoeing and such, I totally enjoyed my stay in Banff.  Wonderful atmosphere and services at the hotel, a Canadian icon. The magical experience of lazing in the hot spring swimming pool  as snow drifted down around us.  The drama of a winter storm observed from above the clouds after an eight minute journey to the summit of Sulphur Mountain in a modern, fully‑enclosed four passenger gondola cabin was one of life’s special moments. The views become increasingly spectacular as you climb 698m (2,292 ft) to an elevation of 2,281m (7,486 ft) at the Summit Upper Terminal.  Just to name a few of the things that made for a special few days.

 

An evening trip to one of the world’s greatest hotels, the glorious  Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise for a sumptuous meal and sleigh ride as fresh snow gently drifted down from the sky was one of the most memorable few hours of my life. The winter chateau set in a wonderland of twinkling lights is every bit as magical as a summer visit to the turquoise, glacier fed lake in full glorious summer regalia.

 

Heading up the parkway from Banff to Jasper was one of those moments in life where you are eager to move ahead, yet loath to move from where you are.  There was so much still to see and do in the Banff area.  Yet I had always dreamed to a stay at the famous Jasper Park Lodge, and the knowledge that my train trip still lay ahead lured me on.

The Lodge lived up to its reputation. A skillful blending of wilderness experience and luxury.

 

At the end of a wonderful week in the Rockies we boarded the train at 2 pm bound for Vancouver. A light snow was falling and the air was wonderfully crisp and clean. As soon as we boarded and found our cabins I made my way to the dome car.  We were about to pass through areas which can only be seen from the train, true wilderness, small communities, mountain ranges - all from a different perspective than that offered by a car..  I even booked for the last dinner in the dining room so that I didn’t waste any daylight viewing.

 

This delightful interlude presented an opportunity to meet fellow train travellers. I swear that part of the joy of train travel is the socializing.  My companions this day were a Dad and his two kids enjoying an adventure from Winnipeg to Vancouver and back again.  This caring Dad had noticed the Northern Lights the night before, woke his kids and carried them back to the dome car for a once in a lifetime experience.  It was the main topic of their conversation until the splendour of the mountains engaged them.

 

The delicious evening meal, a trip back to the dome car, and soon I was so pleasantly tired it was a joy to head for my train bedroom.  Now train accommodation is not spacious, or luxurious.  It is however comfortable and adequate as long as you plan properly.  You have a bed with little luxuries I really appreciate: a light perfectly positioned for reading which you can turn on or off in easy reach, a place to put your glasses, a toilet and sink, albeit small and a little cramped, that are exclusively yours for the duration and a steward to make up your bed.  It’s a bit of pampering which is extended to wake up calls and helping you with your bags when the trip ends.

 

The most magical part of this trip from Jasper to Vancouver, was boarding the train in winter and waking up the next morning to spring in Vancouver.  A festival celebrating cherry blossoms was in full swing - what a welcome!

 

I so enjoyed this train trip my husband and I decided to fulfill one of our life dreams.  We booked our cabin to across Canada in January, returning back to the Maritimes in April.  Sheer joy!  One of the best things we ever did.

 

Now I must admit that we cheated.  We drove to Toronto because of all of VIA’s trains the only one that is not comfortable for seniors is the Ocean which runs from Halifax to Montreal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This won’t be the last time we ride the rails either.  We are determined to take in some of VIA’s other offerings: The Skeena through the remote beauty of the Rockies and northern British Columbia from  Jasper to Prince Rupert, the Hudson Bay from Winnipeg to Churchill - polar bear country, the Vancouver Island ‘s Malahat, and perhaps the Quebec Abitibi and Saguenay.